Hotel Gajoen, Tokyo

The founding animator of Studio Ghibli (Hiyao Miyazaki) credits the Hotel Gajoen for heavily influencing his artistic style. A national heritage landmark, the hotel is a monument to the early Japanese Art Deco movement. We are lovers of Miyazaki’s art – and Ghibli’s films in general – so Stasia booked us a couple nights in this extravagant historic venue.

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The ground floor is a large open space with stylized restaurants, garden waterfalls and an expansive atrium. Dotting the periphery are large scale works of art on the walls and ceilings.

The elevators were also works of art inside and out.

But the treasure of it’s collection, it turns out, is on the marriage floors. That’s right, entire floors of the hotel are dedicated to weddings, and each chamber within is a jewel. Apparently, it’s THE place to get married in Tokyo. After our brief tour, it’s easy to see why.

There are allegorical wood panel reliefs on the walls, mother of pearl inlayed scenes of nature, intricate wooden patterns covering rice paper walls, ornate flower displays and carved columns of gods.

There are many rooms which, in sequence, bring a bride and groom through ritual and ceremony to their perfect place. From the meeting of the families (special room) to the blessing of the elders under the Shinto Shrine, to the honoring of the couple through sake and tributes, to the banquet rooms – each more exquisitely ornate than the last. They all had imagery that reinforced the nature of marriage – the single crane leaving its family, the aged fall giving way to the blossoms of spring, the passing of history through generations.

We weren’t allowed to photograph the sacred rooms with shrines. Those rooms definitely had a hallowed ground feel.

Another notable item were the chandeliers, which were beautiful and different from room to room. Because of their direct light in a darkened setting, it was difficult to photograph. Often hanging from wooden painted ceilings, they were adventurous in their form and design.

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You haven’t mentioned food yet…

Oh right, the food – the FOOD! Our accommodations came with a complimentary breakfast and – WHOA – what an extravaganza! The buffet offered so many interesting edibles I didn’t know where to start. I had tuna sashimi, grilled butterfish, braised seaweed and ‘water shield’. I continued with smokey tofu, creamy eggplant, fatty tuna, pickled avocado and fermented soybeans. Even though I know you’ve stopped reading by now, I am enjoying the memory too much to stop. My belly was treated to rich mushroom miso soup and spicy cod roe. The deep green smoothie made from veggies and fruits was a lovely side. Finally, I finished up with wholegrain croissants, apple strudel and strong coffee. Lord, that was a satisfying meal! I have found that most foods don’t photograph well indoors, so I’ll spare you the imagery… well, except these oozing legumes.

The dish of fermented soybeans was the FIRST food I didn’t care for this trip. It wasn’t that they were covered in a slimy goo (a byproduct of their fermentation), they just tasted bad.

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This has been a once in a lifetime experience for us. The first class accommodations, elegant setting, wonderful food and special treatment has made our intro to Japan a solid glowing highlight!