Our extra-continental exploits

With just over two days left, we had anticipated a slow, sleepy conclusion to our trip. Nothing planned except a nice restful exit. We really didn’t imagine it would be packed with some high drama, brilliant art exhibits, ferry rides, an artist date with a new friend, and a whole extra day in Europe! These… Read more

Ocean bound are we, edging south by southwest through scrubby tundra, the landscape taking an obvious coastal influence, but still no sight of the big blue. We know it will appear soon, heralding our arrival at the sandy beach town of Vila Nova de Milfontes. Other than a day in Lisboa before flying out, this… Read more

We’re scooting sideways across Portugal to the western tip of the Alentejo, skipping through country highways, one-horse towns, and long expanses of the deliciously toothsome terrain which owns this region. It’s not yet April and these plains are already gettin’ toasty, the grassy grounds ready to shed their spring greens for shimmering golds. So many… Read more

After a day in which nothing panned out the way we planned, we were due for a solid. Or, maybe a solid and a half, as the following are the exploits of us two over the course of 36 hours. Buckle up and prepare yourselves for a whirlwind of adventure and big bites of a… Read more

We’ve forsaken southern shores for dry forests and made our great escape northwards. The Alentejo and its arid hills will be our in-flight movie as we wind our way to Évora. While our route passes by a few cities recommended to us by Carla, we’re going to save them for next time (or maybe the… Read more

Our last days in Albuferia find us mostly as homebodies. We’ve been away nearly a month and the duties of our normal life are beckoning, and my workload has multiplied suddenly. It’s a shame to work on vacation, but being gone this long I could hardly complain and I’m sincerely grateful to have employment that… Read more

Sidewalk Laundry Seems like every aspect of normal day-to-day life has a touch of the outré to it when away from the home country. Unconscious tasks that are normally rote, like washing clothes, require a newly focused awareness. While here, our duds have met suds at a laundromat, in our flat via a tiny washer/dryer… Read more

From our previous haunt, it’s just under an hour’s drive to our next cidade do viagem: Albufeira. We know that it’s a favorite summer destination for the Uber driver I met in Porto and that the word comes from the Islamic influence on the language (begins with AL) – but naught else. We’re in no… Read more

Our last 48 hours in Tavira find us in true form – eating, drinking, and digesting to the pulse of Portugal’s heartbeat, our ambitions ephemeral as sea breezes, the slow time spread like it might never end. Strangers though we were to this town not two days ago, we now feel as connected as so… Read more

Today we’ll touch the southern edge of the old world. Squinting towards hazy horizons hiding the northern coast of Africa, we’ll soak in the same sunny shores as bygone sailors and salty sea monsters. We’re going to Ilha de Tavira, the island beach. It sounds a little pretentious, but it’s easy to get nostalgic about… Read more

Our Iberian escape has landed us in the far south, a region known as The Algarve (say al-gar-veh with minimal pronunciation of the veh), and so far it presents quite a difference to the central and northern regions we’ve sampled. Driving in from the Alentejo province just to the north, the first thing you notice… Read more

We’re saying goodbye to Coimbra today, this brilliant, bustling burg we’ve been crushing on. At this point, having barely scratched the surface, our attraction is a matter of chemistry – but when you know, you know, and we both long ago learned to trust in first impressions. We’d only booked four days here – not… Read more

Coimbra (say queengbra) is approximately half-way in between Lisboa and Porto – roughly an hour either way. It was the capital of Portugal for two hundred years and has a fascinating history – immediately apparent when you look about the old town. The world’s oldest continuously running university (est. 1290 & a UNESCO world heritage… Read more

180 minutes of possibility When in travel mode, I find I have to quell that inner voice which is trying to maximize my journey in terms of quantity. If we could just check off that one thing before we leave – you know, the one that got 4.8 stars on Google, and that couple from… Read more

Last day in Porto. You might think that lights a fire under our butts – there are only 50 amazing things we haven’t seen yet. But our tanks are already full and the desire to explore further is slaked by the conviction that we will return, hopefully many times. Our previous day’s exploits still fresh… Read more

Relaxificationism It’s a watershed moment in a vacation when you can spend a whole day in repose, unhurried and unworried about ‘getting it in’. Our stay in Porto has struck a good balance – measured, but active – and today we’re going to chillax – a painting salon for Stash and a reading/writing day for… Read more

There is something undeniably Gandalphian about these striking representations of old testament prophets Elijah and Elisha, situated directly across the street from our flat. Blink and you’ll miss it I step outside the bakery in the morning, waiting for our breakfast to be prepared – it’s an amazing day! The heavens have opened with blue… Read more

Houston we have a próblema Other than a 5-hour sojourn sometime last week, this will be the first night we get quality sleep, but it won’t be for free. The payment will be a meltdown which is all the meltier due to the echoey, cavernous effect of our tired, emotional voices bouncing off the bare… Read more

The last day in A Cidade and it feels like a good time to get movin’, sleep be damned. It’s Saturday and suddenly the streets are swollen with tourists. Lost in translation A brisk morning walk is just the thing to get the day started. Passing a little pasteleria, I poke in and order a… Read more

Dois On day two, we awake at noon after another (mostly) sleepless night – and laugh at our jet lag. Sometimes on a big trip, you need to guard against ‘shoulds’ – all those little details you fussed over in the planning stages – the story you’ve told yourself. Like a battle, all plans are… Read more

You say Lisbon, they say Lisboa – it’s an exonym and there’s todays new word. Immediate impressions upon landing and entering the airport are friendly and welcoming. It’s amazing how nicely designed signage can affect your mood. How many times have I seen the ‘international’ symbols for man and woman and yet these stuck out.… Read more

“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things” John Steinbeck What is special about travel? You are always traveling … from one place to another, from one task to another, voyeuristically through facebook posts or vicariously through streaming media. If nothing else, through time. Even when sleeping, the subconscious surfaces… Read more