The starting point for today’s tale takes place in the middle of the day – whence was ordered by Nai this simple yet magnificent meal. You see, it’s not JUST that it’s a beautiful presentation, or that it was fish caught right there, or that it tasted even better than the photo can show – it’s this: it wasn’t even on the menu. As in: we make this dish only for the locals. To know me is to know that a travel memory doesn’t get better than this… so simple a thing and yet it sums up everything I want from an exotic experience. Thank you Nai!!
Events that led up to this plate of perfection…
We took a ferry from the docks of Pattaya to shores of Ko Lan Island, about an hours journey. The ride was peaceful if not a bit windy – we passed the time chatting to each other and making googly faces at the cute baby in front of us.
Ko Lan is a fun little island complete with beaches, t-shirt vendors, coconuts, the sea of vacationing humanity and the obligatory Buddhist shrine.
The large beach umbrellas that were normally available weren’t (cleaning day), so to avoid slow-cooking in the 90 degree full sun we smartly occupied a table in a restaurant all day – slowly ordering food and drink over the course of 4 hours – while small factions of our party took turns popping out to the ocean for a commune with nature.
How John learned to enjoy hisself
Stasia taught me a great lesson about traveling today. I was a little down on the island experience… Without rehashing the details (had to do with lots of people, motorboats and jet-skis) in my mind it wasn’t good enough. I was not enjoying the moment – I had expected something different.
Watching Stasia, I noticed how she was having a great time – one of her favorite days of the whole trip in fact. She didn’t expect anything and found ample joy in what was there – not what wasn’t. She found the shirt she’d been looking for. She played in tropical ocean waves just like she loved. She met people rather than avoided them. She laughed easily.
I let go my expectations, dropped into the moment and relaxed. Sooo much better working with what IS. Talking food with Nai inspired him to ask the cook to prepare a special meal that wasn’t on the menu. The aforementioned Platter of Harmonious Flavors soon followed and all was right with the world.
Sunned and satiated, we sauntered back to Pattaya.
Running with the Buddha
When we reached shore, I separated from the group. I had not done a lick of running since we left on vacation and was really itching for one. Plus I have an upcoming race in a week, and needed to get in a good training day. My plan was to run up the hill to see the Giant Buddha, check out the paths around the temple and then run through the city to get back to our room. It was 95 degrees at this point and really humid. All the better – heat training is taxing but good for endurance work.
At the top of the hill, before getting to his holy golden Nibs, there was an area with allegorical imagery and sculpted figures, holy people that contributed to the spirituality of the Thai people.
These all were shrines, and many had incense available to light and leave as a type of prayer. I didn’t do that – just popped a picture and went on my way. I wanted to make a ritual out of it, but I was on a mission.
Running further up the hill brought me to the Giant Buddha, in full golden splendor. The stairs leading up to it appeared to be flanked by giant hands, each with 7 serpent heads for fingers.
At the top, the namesake monument was impressive – 18 meter tall golden statues are impressive – but after a week of seeing them everywhere, I’ve got a bit of Buddha fatigue. The enormous effigy was surrounded by other versions of the long-eared lad. I believe collectively they told his story – of how he came to find enlightenment.
In front of the Buddha that was surrounded by other Buddhas was another Buddha. This one had a tactile purpose – you were meant to bathe him with the cup and water provided.
After seeing a procession of monks lead a group of devotees through the ritual, I decided to join in the fun.
Running Back
Up on the hill there were some nice paved/tiled trails that went around the entire monument. There were also stairs – 250 of them in fact, that cut through top to bottom. I ran the paths, went up and down the stairs twice and then headed home.
I think I looked a bit odd running through the busy streets of downtown Pattaya. I don’t think people EVER do that. It’s dirty, dingy, crowded, smokey, stinky from car exhaust and HOT. Plus there’s really nowhere to run except to make an obstacle course of it. For me it was an exciting excursion through the belly of a city half-way around the world.
That heat though… I was sweating buckets! I had to purchase, drink and pour on my head 3 bottles of icy cold water en-route to keep from imploding.
I came across this cool open air market when I was a mile from our room. Everything looked so good!! As soon as I went under it’s corrugated roof, the skies opened up and dumped an absolute deluge. Just threw that rain at us. I realized this was the end of my trek and I’d have to get a taxi, which I did after purchasing a bag of fried chicken and rice to bring back home.
All in all a great long day. After the beach and what amounted to a 7 mile run in the sun, I came back with bright red lobster arms. Owell, more souvenirs
The Itinerant Three TnTs 